This is a small simple recipe, I’ve played around with several different formulations but I keep making this one. I like to make 2 small bars out of it. For shampoo bars I like to make small 1.5-2.5 oz sizes. They last incredibly long time. A hard oil like Kokum butter really helps with the hardness of the bar.
6 g stearic acid
5 g cetyl alcohol
10 g BTMS-50
5 g Kokum butter
15 g CAPB
32 g SCI Powder
22 g SLSa
1 g Panthenol-DL
Cool down (below 120 degrees)
2 g honeyquat
1 g oat extract
1 g rosemary tree essential oil
1 ml liquid Germall Plus
This recipe is in three phases, add the things from the melt into a double boiler, once they are melted together remove from heat and add the things in the add hot category, mix carefully at first, you do not want to get a bunch of surfacant powder in the air. You should have a mask for this part, you do not want this stuff in your lungs. It will all melt in together as you stir. Once it is all combined check the temperature and let it sit for a few minutes until it is cool enough to continue, It’s a good time to add a colorant if you plan on doing that. Once the temperature drops below 120 add the final ingredients and mix until thoroughly combined. press into a mold, or use a press to mold. I use a moon cake press.
I made Shampoo Bars with Coconut Milk, Coconut Oil, Hemp Seed Oil, Olive Oil, Castor Oil, Palm Oil, Jojoba Oil and Sweet Almond Oil. I added Henna Powder, Citric Acid and Panthenol, Rosemary EO, Tea Tree EO and Peppermint EO.
I made the mistake of trying to cut them way, way to early so they are going to rest for a few days. I consistently make harder soaps that can be cut the next morning so I wasn’t even thinking about how soft this was going to be until the knife was already in the soap. The rest got almost a week of sitting before I cut them. I used a brand new mold with better insulation and got a bit of overheating in some of these bars, luckily these are just for family.
For shampoo bars most people forgo the use of fragrance oils and colorants. I decided to do the same. The addition of Rosemary, Tea Tree and Peppermint essential oils are more beneficial to hair than a fragrance oil could ever be.
Leave it to me to use a difficult sample scent for my first batch of cold process soap. Here is my rose scented soap. It was going to have some red swirls but there was no time. I also was learning how big of a recipe I needed for the mold I have. Recipe was a little small, not so pretty but it smells nice.
For my second batch things went a little more like I had planned. I ended up with the correct amount, the color, look and scent that I wanted and only a bit of soda ash to clean up. I was able to do the design I wanted.
Adding Lemon Balm, Lavender and Chamomile to steeping water, I am still sad my mint did not sprout with these others and I am using dried stuff. Here’s what I’ve been making as iced tea’s this week as I’ve been trimming up my garden.
Fresh Lemon balm chamomile tea
2/4 cup fresh lemon balm leaves
1/4 cup Chamomile flowers
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1.5 cups of boiling water removed from heat.
Pour over herbs and steep for 5 minutes
Lavender Mint Tea
1 teaspoon lavender flowers
2 teaspoons dried mint
1.5 cups of boiling water removed from heat.
Pour over herbs and steep for 5 minutes
I’ve also remade a few things I ran out of so I have a fresh batch of Lavender & Cedar Shaving Cream, Lavender Lip Balm and a Lavender & Tea Tree Foot Balm. In a few more days I will be able to start picking and drying wild lavender on my walks, I can hardly wait.
Lavender Lip Balm + Foot Balm Recipe
.5 oz beeswax
.75 oz Coconut Oil
.25 oz Cocoa Butter
15 drops Grapeseed Oil
10 Drops Vitamin E
20 Drops Lavender Essential Oil
Add Beeswax, Coconut Oil, Cocoa Butter and Grapeseed Oil to a double boiler and melt gently until all ingredients are dissolved.
Remove from heat and add Vitamin E and Lavender Essential Oil, Stir and pour into lip balm container.
I took the second half of this lip balm recipe and I added 15 drops of Tea Tree and 10 drops of peppermint and poured the remainder into a container to cool. Now I also have a foot balm.
I don’t have 1 oz soap molds so I make a 4 oz square bar and then cut it into 1 oz slices.
Lavender Tea Tree Facial Soap
4 oz Shea Melt and Pour Soap Base (divided into 2 parts)
1/8 tsp Kaolin Clay and/or Rose Clay
1/8 tsp Activated Charcoal
8 drops Evening Primrose Extract
6 drops Lavender Essential Oil
4 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Jojoba Oil
In a measuring cup place 2 oz of the Shea Melt & Pour soap base and then add Kaolin Clay or Rose Clays.
Melt in microwave in 10 second bursts and mix well for a minute. Add Lavender Essential Oil, Evening Primrose Extract and Jojoba Oil. Pour into mold and spritz with isopropyl alcohol to remove any bubbles.
If you want your layers of soap to remain completely separate place the mold with Layer 1 in the freezer while you prepare Layer 2.
In the same measuring cup place 2 oz of the Shea Melt & Pour soap base chopped into pieces and Activated Charcoal.
Melt in microwave in 10 second bursts and mix well for a minute. Add Jojoba Oil and Tea Tree Essential Oil and mix well.
Spritz the clay soap with isopropyl alcohol again before pouring the charcoal layer on top. The alcohol is essential to ensuring the layers of soap stick together. Depending on how long Layer 1 cooled when you pour Layer 2 it may sit on top as a separate layer or immediately mix in.
Let your mold cool for an hour or more before removing, if you are impatient you can put it in the freezer but take it out after about 10 minutes or it might sweat glycerin when it comes out of the mold.
I made my way down to the herbal supply store, I haven’t lived here long (just over a year) so I googled what I needed and found a place called Herban Wellness( near an awesome thai place) and it was absolutely wonderful, they had everything I needed for this project and then some… so I ended up buying stuff for crafts I hadn’t even thought of making.
I wanted to focus mostly on my feet so I automatically thought of tea tree. It is naturally antimicrobial and can combat athletes foot on top of smelling wonderful. I also picked up dried lavender flowers and dried eucalyptus leaf and some natural food dye while I was there.
Foot Soak Ingredients you will need
Epsom salt or sea salt
dried herbs or flowers(optional)
containers for finished product
spoon (for mixing)
I recommend reading about any essential oils you pick up before using them. Tea tree is toxic when ingested, and although rare, some people can have allergic reactions to tea tree. Concentrations of tea tree oil at 10% or more is not recommended as it may irritate skin. You only need 5 – 8 drops of tea tree oil for a large mixing bowl full of salt. Studies on tea tree oil show that it is indeed antimicrobial and has some effect in treating athletes foot, can kill MRSA in laboratory settings, and 5% solutions have shown some effect at eliminating mild to moderate acne.
Measuring: When I measure this recipe I generally pour plain salt into the containers in which it will be stored in when I am finished … in this case I wanted to fill four 8 oz jars. After filling the jars I then dump them into the mixing bowl. ( additionally you can fill the same jar for each container of the same size you will be using. You’ll have just the right amount when you are done.
I then added a tablespoon of dried lavender flowers and crushed eucalyptus leaf. You don’t need much and you may exclude it all together. I personally don’t mind flowers and herbs (or tea) in my water. I dropped in about 8 drops of tea tree oil and 1 drop of food dye(for appearance) or instead you can get specialty salts like pink Himalayan salt.
Mix well and you’re done! Place the salt in containers, decorate and label as you wish.
For a second batch I followed the same routine and used pink grapefruit and bergamot essential oil. I also cut open and dumped in a bag of lemon zinger tea. You can create your own scents though tea tree, rosemary, peppermint, eucalyptus and lavender are all great for feet. For a foot bath I like to have particulate leaves or herbs mixed in, if you are taking a full bath however, particulate may be undesirable, I make an exception for dried flowers, if you have fresh roses about though, a special scented bath with your bath salts and fresh rose petals may be in order as soon as they begin to wilt and droop. Dry your rose petals and they can be added to your foot soaks. Also the amount of essential oil needed will be dependent on the kind you are using, the tea tree is very strong where the grapefruit and bergamot I picked up were more delicate, you may need to use more.
Tea Tree Salt Scrub
For salt scrubs you follow exactly the same process as above. Excluding any particulates. Add oil of your choice to the container until it fully saturates the salt and covers a bit over the top.