This soap is made with pumpkin puree. The pumpkin spice fragrance with discolor quite dark so I left a portion of the batter without scent and added TD. I hope the darkening doesn’t completely swallow up the orange mica.
This is my second Aloe Vera Soap. For the first one I made my own aloe vera gel for a cold process soap. It ended up taking a long time to cure and it was a very soft soap. This time Around I am going to use whole leaf Aloe, With the spines trimmed away I am going to blend it with the rest of the skin on it. Then I am going to add it at trace to a hot process soap. In this one I did not replace all of the water with aloe but went with roughly half. This will leave a nice off white soap with little bits of aloe skin in it. I added spirulina powder for a beautiful natural green colorant. The soap recipe itself is an all vegetable blend of olive, coconut, sweet almond, palm and castor then supperfatted with shea butter.
For this recipe I boiled some carrots in filtered water and then pureed them with a little bit of distilled water.
I am going to use 1.25 oz of carrot puree per lb.
I have decided to add my turmeric directly into the oils and heat them for several hours to infuse the oil with the turmeric before adding the lye. I will be adding 1 teaspoon per lb of turmeric.
Aside from the water I added to the carrots the rest of the water is substituted with Coconut milk.
I added an a superfat of 5% with Cocoa Butter after the cook.
No scents used here, no fancy design, just good carrot soap for sensitive skin.
This is my first hot process soap and it is a combination of olive oil, palm flakes, coconut, castor and Sunflower oils as well as rice bran oil as a superfat. The coconut ensures it is cleansing, the castor ensures it bubbles well, the coconut, sunflower and rice bran condition and the palm makes sure it is a nice solid bar of soap.
I adjusted all the amounts in a soap calculator until I got the qualities I wanted. Soapcalc is my go to soap calculator but there are others. They have tutorials and once you know how to get the qualities you want in a soap you will make much better soaps.
I used distilled water and nothing with sugars so this soap gave me no trouble at all. However, I got gold sparkle everywhere.
For the colorant I used a mix of yellow and orange mica’s and added more to the main batter for each layer, the bottom later is white and the top layer has the most orange and yellow. I did mica lines with gold sparkle between each layer for a subtle vein effect. I was looking for a natural stone sort of look, I think I did alright with that.
I am used to working with cold process soap and having a top to decorate. I decided a gold dusting would cover the plain, rough top I was nervous about.
I used a Honeysuckle scent which is supposed to slightly discolor, I am not sure if the titanium dioxide I added will counteract that at all, only time will tell if that enhances or detracts.
This recipe I used for this soap is 55% Lard, 25% coconut Oil, 8% Castor Oil 8% Sunflower oil and 4% palm oil with a superfat of 5%. I rendered the lard from bacon fat for this one, it’s my first animal fat soap.
It will continue to darken as it cures..
I used fresh aloe vera gel in place of the water and a large amount of shea butter went into this recipe. Since it will be done curing in October I added orange and black colorant and a pumpkin spice scent. On the side I poured several unscented and plain aloe & shea bars as well. The white in this soap will darken a bit as it cures so you will need to use titanium Dioxide to keep white soap white.
7.5 oz Coconut Oil
6 oz Palm Oil
4.5 oz Shea Butter
4.5 oz Olive Oil
3 oz Castor Oil
3 oz Sunflower Oil
1.5 oz Hemp Seed Oil
4.17 oz Sodium Hydroxide
9.90 oz Aloe Vera Gel
(46.53 oz by weight total)
This recipe has a 5% Superfat, is 33% Aloe Vera Gel. Scented with 1.5 oz Pumpkin Spice Fragrance oil.
Colorants used: Activated Charcoal powder, Racing Stripe Orange Mica, Titanium Dioxide to maintain white color.
I did not add TD and this is the same soap 3 days later after darkening, it would be better with TD in my opinion..
I went back and forth on how I was going to design this soap. My original request was for lemon. The problem here is that lemon essential oil wont hold its scent in soap. I went looking for a fragrance oil and after reading reviews of its performance I decided I would likely loose my lemon scent with fragrance oil or it would be so mild the lavender would simply overpower it. I know that I could use lemongrass, but it just isn’t as perfect of a match with lavender as an actual citrus scent, after reading many reviews on fragrance performance the closest match turns out to be a bergamot black tea fragrance. Bitter orange is not far off from lemon so it should work to fill the request and will blend with lavender perfectly. After that there were questions like would the yellow and purple be too silly looking? If I left it at white and yellow and ground up lavender flowers… should I mix the scent or split it between the colors. In the end I went with both colors even if it’s silly and to split the scents between the colors. So the extra made an additional two lavender bars on the side.
Soap Contents: Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Distilled Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Rice Bran Oil
Colorants: Queens Purple Mica, Yellow Mica, Racing Stripe Orange Mica, Gold Shimmer Mica, Activated Charcoal
Fragrance: Lavender Fragrance Oil, Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil
Method: Tilted Base, Pencil line, Hangar