For this recipe I boiled some carrots in filtered water and then pureed them with a little bit of distilled water.
I am going to use 1.25 oz of carrot puree per lb.
I have decided to add my turmeric directly into the oils and heat them for several hours to infuse the oil with the turmeric before adding the lye. I will be adding 1 teaspoon per lb of turmeric.
Aside from the water I added to the carrots the rest of the water is substituted with Coconut milk.
I added an a superfat of 5% with Cocoa Butter after the cook.
No scents used here, no fancy design, just good carrot soap for sensitive skin.
This is my first hot process soap and it is a combination of olive oil, palm flakes, coconut, castor and Sunflower oils as well as rice bran oil as a superfat. The coconut ensures it is cleansing, the castor ensures it bubbles well, the coconut, sunflower and rice bran condition and the palm makes sure it is a nice solid bar of soap.
I adjusted all the amounts in a soap calculator until I got the qualities I wanted. Soapcalc is my go to soap calculator but there are others. They have tutorials and once you know how to get the qualities you want in a soap you will make much better soaps.
I used distilled water and nothing with sugars so this soap gave me no trouble at all. However, I got gold sparkle everywhere.
For the colorant I used a mix of yellow and orange mica’s and added more to the main batter for each layer, the bottom later is white and the top layer has the most orange and yellow. I did mica lines with gold sparkle between each layer for a subtle vein effect. I was looking for a natural stone sort of look, I think I did alright with that.
I am used to working with cold process soap and having a top to decorate. I decided a gold dusting would cover the plain, rough top I was nervous about.
I used a Honeysuckle scent which is supposed to slightly discolor, I am not sure if the titanium dioxide I added will counteract that at all, only time will tell if that enhances or detracts.
This recipe I used for this soap is 55% Lard, 25% coconut Oil, 8% Castor Oil 8% Sunflower oil and 4% palm oil with a superfat of 5%. I rendered the lard from bacon fat for this one, it’s my first animal fat soap.
It will continue to darken as it cures..
I used fresh aloe vera gel in place of the water and a large amount of shea butter went into this recipe. Since it will be done curing in October I added orange and black colorant and a pumpkin spice scent. On the side I poured several unscented and plain aloe & shea bars as well. The white in this soap will darken a bit as it cures so you will need to use titanium Dioxide to keep white soap white.
7.5 oz Coconut Oil
6 oz Palm Oil
4.5 oz Shea Butter
4.5 oz Olive Oil
3 oz Castor Oil
3 oz Sunflower Oil
1.5 oz Hemp Seed Oil
4.17 oz Sodium Hydroxide
9.90 oz Aloe Vera Gel
(46.53 oz by weight total)
This recipe has a 5% Superfat, is 33% Aloe Vera Gel. Scented with 1.5 oz Pumpkin Spice Fragrance oil.
Colorants used: Activated Charcoal powder, Racing Stripe Orange Mica, Titanium Dioxide to maintain white color.
I did not add TD and this is the same soap 3 days later after darkening, it would be better with TD in my opinion..
I went back and forth on how I was going to design this soap. My original request was for lemon. The problem here is that lemon essential oil wont hold its scent in soap. I went looking for a fragrance oil and after reading reviews of its performance I decided I would likely loose my lemon scent with fragrance oil or it would be so mild the lavender would simply overpower it. I know that I could use lemongrass, but it just isn’t as perfect of a match with lavender as an actual citrus scent, after reading many reviews on fragrance performance the closest match turns out to be a bergamot black tea fragrance. Bitter orange is not far off from lemon so it should work to fill the request and will blend with lavender perfectly. After that there were questions like would the yellow and purple be too silly looking? If I left it at white and yellow and ground up lavender flowers… should I mix the scent or split it between the colors. In the end I went with both colors even if it’s silly and to split the scents between the colors. So the extra made an additional two lavender bars on the side.
Soap Contents: Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Distilled Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Rice Bran Oil
Colorants: Queens Purple Mica, Yellow Mica, Racing Stripe Orange Mica, Gold Shimmer Mica, Activated Charcoal
Fragrance: Lavender Fragrance Oil, Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil
Method: Tilted Base, Pencil line, Hangar
I always expect the worst with new techniques and scents. I am using a bamboo scent for this one. I expect it to rice so I will take an extra step to blend the fragrance into a small portion of batter before fully incorporating it. It’s my first coconut milk soap and I expect heating. I am also a little worried to put the soap in the fridge/freezer with my food. So I’ve sort of created a quarantine area of the fridge where the soap mold will be held prisoner in it’s own little soap containment unit until it cools off. I generally am making a soap that I would apply heat to so cooling is a bit of a difference for me. Also I would recommend being careful with strong scents because your leftover takeout rice could absorb some scent and for example become ‘bambooed rice’.. or you’ll have ‘bambooed-butter’ or something awful so take this into consideration scent by scent, this one didn’t cause any trouble.
I am making this soap with palm, coconut, olive, castor and avocado oils. about 60% of the water was substituted with coconut oil and I added bentonite clay. I ended up using an in the mold swirl: which is two colors divided and then poured into the mold half the batter at a time, swirling the colors in together.
I added a portion of the batter to the fragrance oil and it didn’t know if it wanted to become solid or rice or both and I mixed like crazy, divided it into the separated portions and I had to blend it until it was at a thick trace before it smoothed out so I ran a chopstick through it since it was very gloppy when poured and I wanted to ensure it mixed enough. I hope I pounded the majority of the bubbles out after that.
This particular green mica goes through some interesting shades of vibrant green to grey color transformations.
I did have a few blemishes, the top of the soap had two small cracks, I got almost a complete gel so the two end pieces aren’t as pretty, the bubbles were about what I was expecting for how thick it was. Here we are unmolded and cut. The white still may yellow a bit from the fragrance oil. We shall see. At this point the green color change is nearly complete and the grey is almost gone.