55 oz Distilled Water
4.30 oz BTMS-50
.84 oz Panthenol-DL
.84 oz Hemp Seed Oil
1 oz Nettle Extract
1 oz Lotus Flower Extract
Preservative. (I am using Optiphen ND at 1%)
In a double Boiler melt the BTMS-50 and hemp seed oil. In a mixing bowl as your distilled water and heat in the microwave until it’s about 120-140 degrees. Remove an oz of water and dissolve the Panthenol-DL.
Once everything is hot and the BTMS-50 is melted and completely clear, mix them together slowly while whisking constantly. Once fully incorporated continue to mix for 30 seconds then add the Panthenol-DL/water and whisk. Once incorporated add the Nettle Extract and mix until incorporated, Add the Lotus Flower Extract and whisk for one minute. Let the bowl rest for about 5 minutes and whisk again, add fragrance and preservative and whisk for one minute. I used a tart apple fragrance. After all ingredients are mixed use a pH test strip (you want to be between 5-6.) You will need to adjust if you are outside of that range. Citric Acid is used to increase acidity.
Also important to note that I am using Optiphen ND which causes my conditioner to thin when I add it so before adding it you should have a fairly thick conditioner, if you are using a different preservative you may need to adjust your water or BTMS-50 ratio quickly. With any new recipe (most of the time for me) I have the new recipe back-up ingredients ready on the side: some extra hot water and some extra BTMS-50 that is ready to quick melt, just in case my conditioner is too thick or too thin.
Continue whisking for a few minutes. After the preservative is added no new ingredients should be introduced. Test your conditioner with a pH test strip. It should be in the 5-6 range. Let your mixture rest for 5 minutes then whisk again on and off for at least 5 cycles or until the conditioner is just slightly warm. Bottle the conditioner when it is still warm, it’s thinner and easier to work with the warmer it is. You also need to ensure you have a good emulsion so it doesn’t separate so do not skip the whisk and wait steps, I like using a glass bowl so I can see if there is separation.
I find a turkey baster works well for bottling conditioner and bottling at a hotter temperature is best for thicker conditioners. Leave the containers with the lids off, until they reach room temperature, this prevents condensation.
I ran out of hair conditioner while moving so I made this up quick.
I went heavy on the extracts and there is almost no oil in it because I co-wash. If you use this small amount of oil, melting the BTMS-50 in a double boiler can be a bit of a struggle, make sure the Distilled Water is also hot and whisk as you mix them, I recommend checking the instructions and temperature listings on the ingredient packages so you know when to add your extracts. I scented it with Pikake flower and tart apple as my last ingredients along with the preservative.
28.3 grams BTMS -50
5.66 grams Argan Oil
411 grams Distilled Water
5.66 grams Pantenol
28.3 grams Aloe Extract
28.3 grams Avocado Extract
28.3 grams Nettle Extract
28.3 grams Liquid Silk
5.66 grams Hydrolyzed Oats
5.66 milliliters Optiphen ND
Here we go, I’ve been reading up on this for a while a few things to get familiar with before you start should be cationic quaternary compound’s and PH.
I feel like I am ready to try making a batch of hair conditioner. I researched ingredients for a while then built some basic recipes around what I have on hand. Sketched out several recipes for General Use(Argan & Nettle), Moisturizing (Coconut & Avocado) , Dandruff(Tea Tree, Avocado & Nettle), Winter Hair (Carrot & Oat), Invigorating(Jojoba, Rosemary & Peppermint).
My first attempt is as follows, this was my ‘general use’ idea.
90.5% Distilled Water
3% Nettle Extract
1% Argan Oil
1% Fragrance (I used green apple)
It was a little on the thin side, and very appley! If I were remaking this recipe right now I would make the following adjustments 0.5% fragrance and 4% BTMS-50.
Mango scented with Mango Butter, Moroccan Red Clay and Nettle Extract.
Yucca Root Hair Wash
2 tbs Dried Yucca Root
2-3 cups Water
2 ml Nettle Extract
2 oz Aloe Vera Juice
In a sauce pan add water and yucca root and bring to a boil. Turn off heat and steep until water is luke warm then strain out the root and add the nettle and aloe vera.
This is a soapy feeling liquid due to the high content of saponins in the yucca root that will foam when shaken up but will not lather when applied to your hair. I don’t really notice any smell from it, perhaps a faint earthy desert smell, I notice the smell of aloe vera more. It might be bothersome but You can add 1-2 drops of essential oil. Lavender, Rosemary or Tea Tree are all great for hair and scalp.
I used about 3/4 of a cup in my hair and let it sit for about 5 minutes then rinsed it out. I followed up with a peppermint, rosemary, tea tree ACV tea rinse. My hair is much softer and exceptionally tangle free. Since there is no preservative to keep this from going bad I froze the remaining liquid in an ice cube tray for later.