I added 1 tablespoon of bentonite clay per pound and some hydrated chrome green colorant. I used olive, coconut, palm, avocado, shea and castor oil as well as adding a teaspoon of salt for hardness and sugar to increase lather.
I added the colorant just after I added the lye water, before I started stick blending. Not that it really matters with hot process soap, you always sort of get a splotchy sort of finish due to the texture of the cooked soap, I rather like how it looks.
I find if I don’t water discount my hot process soaps they distort out of shape as they cure. I also find it takes even longer for my hot process soaps to cure. Most people are under the assumption that hot process soap is faster but if you want to cure it fully all of my hot process soaps actually take longer when I track their cure by weight.
This is a hot process soap with a moderate water discount using the following recipe:
rice bran 5%
shea butter 5%
I blended bay rum with vanilla fragrance, I didn’t try much for a design here as it’s going to darken quite a bit due to the vanilla. I did not do a fluid HP. I sort of smooshed this down into the mold and banged it on the table for a while. I superfated this with the shea butter. I really like the rustic look of hot process soap.
Here is the color transition over a month, I was expecting to get a little darker discoloration from the vanilla than this, perhaps it will get there in time.
This soap is also known as Moroccan Black Soap or Beldi. It is made with 100% olive oil, black olives, distilled water and potassium hydroxide. It should not to be confused with African black soap which is very different. As this is the first time making it I am trying to be as simple and traditional as possible.
Because we are using KOH instead of NaOH this will not be a solid soap. The olive are blended up and added to the lye water, it is also common for the olives to be blended with the oil instead. This is made in a crock pot and is cooked for 3+ hours, in that time the olive breaks down and gives this soap paste a unique texture. It is used by rubbing a small amount onto the skin and working it to a lather, then letting the lather sit for several minutes on the skin before a good scrub and rinse. This soap gel should be sequestered for two weeks to a month before use.
Calculate this recipe using Soapcalc.net as a 100 % olive oil soap, set the superfat somewhere in the 5-10% range based on your preferences. You will be using KOH as your lye source for this recipe. Please check the type of KOH you are using with the soap calc settings. The water content should be calculated in the range of 60-70% of the oil weight depending on how thick you want it to end up.
Add the oil to the crock pot and turn the heat to high. Weight water into a separate heat safe container and add 100 g of olives for every 300 g olive oil, stick blend until everything is in tiny bits.
Add the KOH to the water and mix until dissolved thoroughly.
Add the lye solution to the oil and stick blend until light trace is reached.
Continue to cook for 3-4 hours, stirring every 20-30 minutes or as needed. It can expand rapidly so watch it, until enough water has cooked out and it settles down. It will go through a mashed potato and chunky phases, It might get somewhat solid, you just break it up and mix it. Cook in the 170 to 200 degrees F range and continue to cook until the soap gels and turns dark, it has taken me up to 7 hours of cooking to get gel phase in this soap. Keep cooking it until it gels, the higher the water content the longer it may take. Typically Essential Oil that blends with the natural scent of the soap is chosen.
My biggest area of error when I make soap is remembering the fragrance oil and pre-planning what it will look like. I try to have different levels planned for how it should look. I plan an “ideal” and an “it’s too thick for that/I won’t have the time” backup plan, which is scaled back in case of acceleration. My plan for forgetting the fragrance oil is just to not forget the fragrance oil.
So I added the mica into the crockpot and mixed it in three areas with some white in between and started scooping it into the mold… but then I remembered the fragrance oil! So I decided to scoop things back into the crock pot, add the fragrance and try to get it all properly mixed in without mixing all the colors together, which I mostly failed at since this was hot process. The purple and the brown mostly became one. I should have added more color to compensate for what I had done but I had put my mica’s away already and decided to just go with things as they were. So things didn’t quite turn out to plan, I am still pleased with the end result.
This was a fairly standard plant based recipe with coconut, olive, palm, shea and castor. I am using a green tea infused butter to superfat this recipe to make it a little special.
This soap is made with pumpkin puree. The pumpkin spice fragrance with discolor quite dark so I left a portion of the batter without scent and added TD. I hope the darkening doesn’t completely swallow up the orange mica.
This is my second Aloe Vera Soap. For the first one I made my own aloe vera gel for a cold process soap. It ended up taking a long time to cure and it was a very soft soap. This time Around I am going to use whole leaf Aloe, With the spines trimmed away I am going to blend it with the rest of the skin on it. Then I am going to add it at trace to a hot process soap. In this one I did not replace all of the water with aloe but went with roughly half. This will leave a nice off white soap with little bits of aloe skin in it. I added spirulina powder for a beautiful natural green colorant. The soap recipe itself is an all vegetable blend of olive, coconut, sweet almond, palm and castor then supperfatted with shea butter.
This is my first hot process soap and it is a combination of olive oil, palm flakes, coconut, castor and Sunflower oils as well as rice bran oil as a superfat. The coconut ensures it is cleansing, the castor ensures it bubbles well, the coconut, sunflower and rice bran condition and the palm makes sure it is a nice solid bar of soap.
I adjusted all the amounts in a soap calculator until I got the qualities I wanted. Soapcalc is my go to soap calculator but there are others. They have tutorials and once you know how to get the qualities you want in a soap you will make much better soaps.
I used distilled water and nothing with sugars so this soap gave me no trouble at all. However, I got gold sparkle everywhere.
For the colorant I used a mix of yellow and orange mica’s and added more to the main batter for each layer, the bottom later is white and the top layer has the most orange and yellow. I did mica lines with gold sparkle between each layer for a subtle vein effect. I was looking for a natural stone sort of look, I think I did alright with that.
I am used to working with cold process soap and having a top to decorate. I decided a gold dusting would cover the plain, rough top I was nervous about.
I used a Honeysuckle scent which is supposed to slightly discolor, I am not sure if the titanium dioxide I added will counteract that at all, only time will tell if that enhances or detracts.