For this soap: Palm, coconuts and salt for hardness. Hemp seed, shea and olive for conditioning. Bamboo, algae and charcoal for colorant, and mild exfoliation. Castor and sugar for lots of lather.
55 oz Distilled Water
4.30 oz BTMS-50
.84 oz Panthenol-DL
.84 oz Hemp Seed Oil
1 oz Nettle Extract
1 oz Lotus Flower Extract
Preservative. (I am using Optiphen ND at 1%)
In a double Boiler melt the BTMS-50 and hemp seed oil. In a mixing bowl as your distilled water and heat in the microwave until it’s about 120-140 degrees. Remove an oz of water and dissolve the Panthenol-DL.
Once everything is hot and the BTMS-50 is melted and completely clear, mix them together slowly while whisking constantly. Once fully incorporated continue to mix for 30 seconds then add the Panthenol-DL/water and whisk. Once incorporated add the Nettle Extract and mix until incorporated, Add the Lotus Flower Extract and whisk for one minute. Let the bowl rest for about 5 minutes and whisk again, add fragrance and preservative and whisk for one minute. I used a tart apple fragrance. After all ingredients are mixed use a pH test strip (you want to be between 5-6.) You will need to adjust if you are outside of that range. Citric Acid is used to increase acidity.
Also important to note that I am using Optiphen ND which causes my conditioner to thin when I add it so before adding it you should have a fairly thick conditioner, if you are using a different preservative you may need to adjust your water or BTMS-50 ratio quickly. With any new recipe (most of the time for me) I have the new recipe back-up ingredients ready on the side: some extra hot water and some extra BTMS-50 that is ready to quick melt, just in case my conditioner is too thick or too thin.
Continue whisking for a few minutes. After the preservative is added no new ingredients should be introduced. Test your conditioner with a pH test strip. It should be in the 5-6 range. Let your mixture rest for 5 minutes then whisk again on and off for at least 5 cycles or until the conditioner is just slightly warm. Bottle the conditioner when it is still warm, it’s thinner and easier to work with the warmer it is. You also need to ensure you have a good emulsion so it doesn’t separate so do not skip the whisk and wait steps, I like using a glass bowl so I can see if there is separation.
I find a turkey baster works well for bottling conditioner and bottling at a hotter temperature is best for thicker conditioners. Leave the containers with the lids off, until they reach room temperature, this prevents condensation.
500 grams Distilled Water, hot
28.5 g BTMS-50
5 g Panthenol
28 g Nettle Extract
6 g Oat Extract
6 g Hemp Seed Oil
preservative of your choice
Disolve Panthenol into a few tablespoons of distilled water and set aside. Heat the remainder of the water in the microwave.
In a double boiler, melt the BTMS-50 and Hemp Seed Oil. Once clear and completely melted, whisk slowly into the heated distilled water.
Let the mixture cool for a few minutes and then add the remaining ingredients. (I used Optiphen-ND for my preservative at 1%)
pH test, you want to have your conditioner to have a pH of 5-6.
When slightly warm still, pour into containers, allow to cool with cap off for several hours or over night before sealing.
I made Shampoo Bars with Coconut Milk, Coconut Oil, Hemp Seed Oil, Olive Oil, Castor Oil, Palm Oil, Jojoba Oil and Sweet Almond Oil. I added Henna Powder, Citric Acid and Panthenol, Rosemary EO, Tea Tree EO and Peppermint EO.
I made the mistake of trying to cut them way, way to early so they are going to rest for a few days. I consistently make harder soaps that can be cut the next morning so I wasn’t even thinking about how soft this was going to be until the knife was already in the soap. The rest got almost a week of sitting before I cut them. I used a brand new mold with better insulation and got a bit of overheating in some of these bars, luckily these are just for family.
For shampoo bars most people forgo the use of fragrance oils and colorants. I decided to do the same. The addition of Rosemary, Tea Tree and Peppermint essential oils are more beneficial to hair than a fragrance oil could ever be.