For this I used a half mold silicone container and a clothes hangar. The colorant is activated charcoal and brick red oxide. I split the batter 60% charcoal/40% brick red oxide. Pouring most of the charcoal batter into the mold at a thin trace I then dropped in the red from various heights. Then I took the hangar and I did an up and down pattern through the soap all the way down to touch the bottom and up and out of the soap. Do this across the entire loaf, very close but not over lapping. then turn the mold to the side and do the same thing again. I did not do a fancy top here, The batter was still pretty thin so I filled some rounds with the rest. I made this as a split batch of soap. I like to make only 4-6 bars of any one kind of soap so the half loaf mold is perfect. I make enough for a full loaf and then create two different small batches of soap at once.
I find that some people do not like moisturizing soap and the feel of all of the oil stripped from their skin is desirable so I am going to try and make a very cleansing, low moisturizing, low superfat soap with primarily Lard and Coconut oil. This recipe has a 3% superfat. I used chrome green oxide, titanium dioxide and gold mica for colorant.
327.4 grams of lard
496.1 grams coconut oil
99.2 grams castor oil
327.4 grams water
154.8 grams NaOH
Trying out a new skinny mold.
I forgot the charcoal pencil line that I put in the original. Of all the other things I could have forgotten I guess this is the best outcome.
I used a lot of rice bran oil, Shea butter and cocoa butter in this recipe and bentonite clay. The clay adds some slip to this soap as well as changing the texture of the bubbles to be dense and foamy. Because of the clay the batter set up faster than I was prepared for, I didn’t have a chance to flatten out the tops before they were solid but these are just for family so it doesn’t matter much.
I am hoping I get white suds, it’s easy to over do the charcoal and end up with grey bubbles. I cut them a little early, I could have waited another 12 hours but was impatient and there’s still some soda ash to clean up later. I scented it with Tea Tree Essential Oil.
I made the small soap hearts for a future project… lots of soda ash there.
This was made with the other half of my rendered lard and it will be a very creamy bar of soap. I did a plain base color of light brown, then a gold mica line, then a three color in the pot swirl with white, brown and a dark green. The Scent is Tobacco & Bay Leaf.
One more custom ordered Shea Butter soap. This one is scented with Sandalwood, Patchouli and Frankincense.
This is a shea butter soap, something special for a friend who likes purple, I am using ‘Queen’s Purple Mica’ from Brambleberry. It’s a simple design but I really like it.
I used fresh aloe vera gel in place of the water and a large amount of shea butter went into this recipe. Since it will be done curing in October I added orange and black colorant and a pumpkin spice scent. On the side I poured several unscented and plain aloe & shea bars as well. The white in this soap will darken a bit as it cures so you will need to use titanium Dioxide to keep white soap white.
7.5 oz Coconut Oil
6 oz Palm Oil
4.5 oz Shea Butter
4.5 oz Olive Oil
3 oz Castor Oil
3 oz Sunflower Oil
1.5 oz Hemp Seed Oil
4.17 oz Sodium Hydroxide
9.90 oz Aloe Vera Gel
(46.53 oz by weight total)
This recipe has a 5% Superfat, is 33% Aloe Vera Gel. Scented with 1.5 oz Pumpkin Spice Fragrance oil.
Colorants used: Activated Charcoal powder, Racing Stripe Orange Mica, Titanium Dioxide to maintain white color.
I did not add TD and this is the same soap 3 days later after darkening, it would be better with TD in my opinion..