Tag Archives: Cold Process Soap

Spearmint Eucalyptus Salt Bars

I like to add a little extra to my salt bars to improve the conditioning properties of the soap but you could use 100% coconut oil as long as you keep the sf% around 10%-20%. This recipe is a 12% super fat and I am using 75% of the oil weight in sea salt. This makes soap that hardens quickly and cannot be cut easily, and can be unmolded in a few hours, because of this I am not using a water discount.

I never like the look of my round bars, but I haven’t really made any effort to find a replacement mold so I guess I cannot complain.

Ingredients

  • 127.57 grams olive oil
  • 42.57 grams cocoa butter
  • 680.39 grams coconut oil
  • 323.18 grams distilled water
  • 130 grams sodium hydroxide
  • 637 grams Breton sea salt
  • 34.1 grams fragrance oil

Combine and melt oils in a heat safe bowl. In another container measure the water and place it in the freezer until it is starting to freeze. Measure the salt in a seaparate bowl and prepare any colorants you have into separate cups and have your fragrance, mold and stickblender ready.

Put on, long sleeves, pants and shoes, safety glasses and a 3M mask before handling lye. Measure your lye in a well ventilated area, preferably out doors and in a secure area. Add your lye to the cold near freezing water and mix gently until dissolved. Wait until it cools down to about 110 degrees before adding the lye water to the oils. Add your fragrance oil and mix by hand for a moment before stick blending to thin trace.

Add salt and mix by hand. Add colorant into the bowl on opposite sides and mix well into a small area. Drag a spatula through the entire bowl in a figure 8 to mix the colorants and then poor soap batter into individual molds. This batter is very crumbly so it is not advised to use delicate molds. I gave it a try but they all crumbled. Spray with alcohol and cover. Unmold when cooled and solid. Cure for 4-6 weeks.

Aloha Soap

 

This was a really fun project, it looks a mess, but I had so much fun. I did this using the heat transfer method and adding the fragrance oil at about 100 degrees before I stick blended for maybe 20 seconds. I stopped blending at the lightest trace and hand mixed it the rest of the way. This gave me enough time to separate and mix 5 colors. There is some inconsistency where I did not mix well enough.

I took all of these precaution because I did a water discount, plus I used a floral fragrance It got thick fast at the end. I didn’t get as much color mixing with the chopstick as I wanted. I am testing out a new mica sampler pack from WSP. I had not used any of these micas before, I am mostly pleased by all of the colors except for the purple which faded out almost completely.

I poured all the colors in messy layers then dragged a chopstick through it for a little bit of displacement. After pouring I sprayed it with isopropyl alcohol and covered it in plastic. For the sake of the colors I wanted to fully gel this soap so I preheat the oven to 170 degrees F, then turned it off and put my soap in there and left it alone for 12 hours before I unmolded it.

 

Castile Cold Process Soap

 

What is and what isn’t Castile soap is always up for debate it seems. A lot of soap makers maintain that Castile soap is 100% olive oil, water, and lye and to replace some of the olive oil with other vegetable oils would make it Bastille soap. Which is still primarily olive oil in content but includes other vegetable based oils.

You can walk into many stores and find Bastille soap sold as Castile soap and the argument continues among them.

Let’s look at the history of olive oil soap.

What we now call Castile soap was first believed to have been made in the same region in Syria as Aleppo Soap, in which incorporates laurel berry oil with olive oil.  “Castile” is named after a region in Spain, which it was given after the Crusades( 1095-1291) brought* it to Europe and the Europeans named it as such. However, the process of making 100% olive oil soap was spread all around the Mediterranean region.

The true origins of soap are lost to time and we are left with legends, the word soap itself is believed to be named after Mount Sapo, a fictional mountain somewhere in the vicinity of Rome. The earliest known documentation of soap making was written down by the Greek-Egyptian alchemist Zosimos of Panopolis around 300 B.C.E.  The oldest soap ever found was excavated in the ancient city of Babylon and dated back to around 2800 B.C.E.

There are several other variations on 100% olive oil soap that I have found throughout history, Savon de Marseille was an olive oil soap made in France with sea water first documented in the 1300’s. Nabulsi soap which was traditionally made by women in West Bank, Palestine before there was an industry, before the 10th century. Beldi soap also known as Savon Noir which has been made in Morocco for centuries is a gel like soap made from macerated olives, ashes and olive oil.

Regardless of what you call it and why, 100% olive oil soap is a very mild and wonderful soap, it takes about a year for it to fully cure. Depending on the type of olive oil you choose to use this soap may take hours or days to become solid enough to unmold. Once it hardens it can become crumbly so you have to keep an eye on it. Mine did become crumbly and work prevented me from cutting sooner but I was able to hide most of the crumbling when I trimmed up the edges. I recommend checking it daily so you do not end up cutting a soap that will crumble on you. I do highly recommend saving good quality olive oil’s for your kitchen and using lesser quality olive oil or pomace for your soaping needs.

This soap will need about seven months to a year for curing, some people even wait longer, you will want to select a fragrance that will really last, if you choose one at all. A large portion of fragrances will loose their scent before the cure would be finished. A steep water discount gets you the lower end of the cure time, I did mine at 33% of the oil weight or roughly a 28% lye concentration. Before this soap is fully cured it can feel sticky when used. it’s not a soap to make if you are an impatient soaper.

 

Aqua Di Gio Soap

The oil you use can effect the overall color of your finished soap. If you want a beautiful white then lard is a good choice. Another good addition was rice bran oil, it tends to make a soap look shinier.

Information

Soap Method: Cold Process

Design Method: In the Pot Swirl

Mold: Tall & Skinny

Soaping Temperature: 117 (oil) 130 (Lye)

Fragrance: Aqua Di Gio from Natures Garden

Ingredients:

440 g manteca

330 g coconut oil

110 g castor oil

110 rice bran oil

110 g shea butter

330 g H2O

15.7 g NaOH

34 g fragrance

Mica: Caribbean blue, celestial blue and black knight mica’s from Brambleberry and Natures Garden.