I decided to include old samples whole for some chunks of color. This is all my soap trimmings from the past 2-3 years.
Rebatching soap is as easy as taking any lye soap, shredding it and melting it down in a crock pot by adding small amounts of water in tablespoon amounts until it becomes a thick mashed potato consistancy. You can do this for old soap, ugly soap or scraps of soap. Then use a handheld mixer to get it all combined. Add color or scent if you want, all colors mixing together like I have here makes an undisirable brown/grey color. I added a bit of a brilliant blue to make sure it wasnt a brownish sort of grey. Charcoal is also a good additive if your getting an unappealing color. You can also sort the colors of soap you are rebatching to start with if you are using large amounts of various kinds of soap. If I planed the surfaces for perfection I them I would have quite a bit more to work with but it’s easier to just throw it all together.
I added an even blend of Frankincense, Sandalwood and Patchouli which makes a very clean scent. It also goes well with all the mixed smells that are already there.
I rebatched this soap the day after I originally made it. The color was a little flat so I rebatched. I boosted the color and added the mica line.
I achieved this by doing an in the pot swirl in the crock pot and using a mixer to blend. then I just spoon in layers of color and add a mica line at each layer. The white chunks from the rebatch are a nice bonus.
I did a 100% water replacement with coconut milk and superfatted with shea butter.
I really like the stone look you can achieve with hot process soap.
I have always used fresh aloe vera gel in the place of water for my aloe soap but this time I am testing out an aloe x 10 extract to see how it differs. Because I think aloe is a more soothing soap I designed it to be very conditioning and I upped the super fat to 8%. I usually stay in the 5-6% range unless I am using a lot of coconut oil.
I planned on trying out powdered coconut milk but I decided not to incase it medled with the white color I wanted to achieve.
I figured the combination of Aloe and White Lilac is a good spring soap selection. It should finish curing just before Easter.
I used an emerald green mica sampler. I have experience in the past that green colorants that I have used tend to react strangely with lye. My Hydrated Green turns grey and then back to green again the next day. This one ’emerald green’ turned more blue than green when mixed into the lye and never quite came back to the green it originally was.