This is a hot process soap with a moderate water discount using the following recipe:
rice bran 5%
shea butter 5%
I blended bay rum with vanilla fragrance, I didn’t try much for a design here as it’s going to darken quite a bit due to the vanilla. I did not do a fluid HP. I sort of smooshed this down into the mold and banged it on the table for a while. I superfated this with the shea butter. I really like the rustic look of hot process soap.
Here is the color transition over a month, I was expecting to get a little darker discoloration from the vanilla than this, perhaps it will get there in time.
This soap is also known as Moroccan Black Soap or Beldi. It is made with 100% olive oil, black olives, distilled water and potassium hydroxide. It should not to be confused with African black soap which is very different. As this is the first time making it I am trying to be as simple and traditional as possible.
Because we are using KOH instead of NaOH this will not be a solid soap. The olive are blended up and added to the lye water, it is also common for the olives to be blended with the oil instead. This is made in a crock pot and is cooked for 3+ hours, in that time the olive breaks down and gives this soap paste a unique texture. It is used by rubbing a small amount onto the skin and working it to a lather, then letting the lather sit for several minutes on the skin before a good scrub and rinse. This soap gel should be sequestered for two weeks to a month before use.
Calculate this recipe using Soapcalc.net as a 100 % olive oil soap, set the superfat somewhere in the 5-10% range based on your preferences. You will be using KOH as your lye source for this recipe. Please check the type of KOH you are using with the soap calc settings. The water content should be calculated in the range of 60-70% of the oil weight depending on how thick you want it to end up.
Add the oil to the crock pot and turn the heat to high. Weight water into a separate heat safe container and add 100 g of olives for every 300 g olive oil, stick blend until everything is in tiny bits.
Add the KOH to the water and mix until dissolved thoroughly.
Add the lye solution to the oil and stick blend until light trace is reached.
Continue to cook for 3-4 hours, stirring every 20-30 minutes or as needed. It can expand rapidly so watch it, until enough water has cooked out and it settles down. It will go through a mashed potato and chunky phases, It might get somewhat solid, you just break it up and mix it. Cook in the 170 to 200 degrees F range and continue to cook until the soap gels and turns dark, it has taken me up to 7 hours of cooking to get gel phase in this soap. Keep cooking it until it gels, the higher the water content the longer it may take. Typically Essential Oil that blends with the natural scent of the soap is chosen.
If you are not using a stick blender I recommend getting one of the cheap ones, but if you are hand mixing make sure you mix it for several minutes, rest, mix, rest, mix some more. I have had a few hand mixed lotions fail to fully emulsify because I thought I had mixed it enough.
This was a really fun project, it looks a mess, but I had so much fun. I did this using the heat transfer method and adding the fragrance oil at about 100 degrees before I stick blended for maybe 20 seconds. I stopped blending at the lightest trace and hand mixed it the rest of the way. This gave me enough time to separate and mix 5 colors. There is some inconsistency where I did not mix well enough.
I took all of these precaution because I did a water discount, plus I used a floral fragrance It got thick fast at the end. I didn’t get as much color mixing with the chopstick as I wanted. I am testing out a new mica sampler pack from WSP. I had not used any of these micas before, I am mostly pleased by all of the colors except for the purple which faded out almost completely.
I poured all the colors in messy layers then dragged a chopstick through it for a little bit of displacement. After pouring I sprayed it with isopropyl alcohol and covered it in plastic. For the sake of the colors I wanted to fully gel this soap so I preheat the oven to 170 degrees F, then turned it off and put my soap in there and left it alone for 12 hours before I unmolded it.
I’ve tried a few different variations but this one seems to be my favorite. I prefer Argan oil over jojoba, avocado and hemp seed oils and I prefer nettle over cucumber, lotus and carrot. I’m just going to put my favorite things together into one conditioner. This recipe will make 70 oz and fill 4 conditioner bottles.
1758 g distilled water
121 g BTMS-50
24 g DL-Panthenol
28 g nettle extract
28 g hydrolyzed oats
24 g Argan oil
.24 g fragrance (optional)
1% Preservative, I used Optiphen-ND
In a double boiler, melt BTMS-50 and Argan oils together.
In a mixing bowl heat the distilled water to 150 degrees. Whisk the DL-Panthenol into the water and mix until dissolved.
Add the melted BTMS and Argan slowly to the distilled water while whisking constantly. Using a stick blender, blend in 5 second bursts until well combined. Add the nettle extract, Hydrolyzed oats, fragrance and preservative, blending again as you add each. The preservative should be the final ingredient added. Once all ingredients are added blend in bursts for 1 or two minutes.
Using a pH test strip, test the conditioner, you will want it in the 5-6 range, you can bring the number lower by adding a small amount of citric acid dissolved in distilled water, blend it all again and retest.
Once the pH is to your liking then continue to blend in bursts every 5- 10 minutes until the temperature drops below 120 degrees and it has started to thicken slightly. You want to pour it into bottles before it thickens too much which can make for a messy pour. To prevent condensation let the bottles sit without the lids for several hours, until they are room temperature, before caping.