Syndet Shampoo Bar Testing

I have been lurking on shampoo bar making websites for about a year and I have finally gotten the stuff to give it a shot.

This is a trial and error exploration. My first attempt was using someone else’s recipe and slightly modifying for what I had on hand, it was too soft. This is what I learned from that recipe, my own modifications and what direction to go from there. This is a beginners formulation made by me from trial and error.  I did not use dimethicone, if you add it I would say at 1% would be a good place to start.

The things I learned about making shampoo bars from my initial failures:

1. You can follow a recipe precisely and still get a different result depending on what company your product is from or form it comes in.

2. Ensuring you get a hard bar is key, mine and many first attempts fail due to softness. Your surfacant is going to wash away the oils you add so think of them in terms of hardness instead of what the oil can do for your hair. Use kokum butter, cocoa butter or up the stearic acid to ensure you get a solid bar. On my first attempt I made the mistake of using jojoba oil and coconut oil and I ended up with something that was like Play-doh.

3. Make 2-4 oz test batches and document eveything until you get it right.

4. If its too soft you can remelt and add ingredients but you would need to add your preservative again as well.

5. You should pH test to see if it needs adjustment.

If this recipe doesn’t work out for you I recommend writing down the usage rates of all the ingredients you are using and then reading about their function in the product, then adjust for what you need more of within the limit of the usage rates. Start by adjusting 2% – 5% on the ingredients you need more or less of until it works for your hair.

Syndet Shampoo Bar – Beginners Formulation #2

Ingredients:

Heat Phase:

32% SCI

22% SLSa

15% CAPB

10% BTMS-50

5% Stearic Acid

5% Cetyl Alcohol

5% Cocoa Butter

Cooling Phase:(add when under 120 degrees)

2% Honeyquat

2% Panthenol

1% Oat Extract

1% Tea Tree Oil

Hydrated Green Chrome Oxide mica (to desired color)

Weigh your batch then calculate 1% of the total recipe for the preservative, I do this by weighing the bowl and spatula before I start then discounting that from the total weight.

1% Liquid Germal Plus

Instruction:

Use a safety mask for this so you do not breathe surfacant fumes while heating. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area.

In a double boiler melt the Heat Phase ingredients, mixing every few minutes until combined well, blend smooth and set aside to cool.

While your hot phase is cooling, mix the panthenol, oat extract, honeyquat and tea tree together until well combined. Once cooled to the desired temperature add cooling phase ingredients and mix well. Weigh and add preservative, mix until well combined then press into mold. Place the mold in the freezer until solid.

 

 

Moisturizing Face Mask

Keeping myself busy before my next round of soap making.

I usually just make up a few tablespoons of face mask each time I want it but I decided to try something new this time so this is a step up from my quick masks. I have added emusifying wax and BTMS-50, and Orchid Extract to my usual clay and water. I rounded the recipe out with jojoba and argan oils. This recipe makes 8oz.


Rhassoul Clay Mask with Orchid Extract & Rose Water
Ingredients:

hot phase:

4.24 oz Distilled Water

.35 oz Jojoba Oil

.26 oz Argan Oil

.26 oz Emulsifying Wax

.02 oz BTMS-50

Cool Down:

1.10 oz Rhassoul Clay

1.50 oz Rose Water

.13 oz Orchid Extract

1% Optiphen ND

Instruction:

Heat jojoba, argan, emulsifying wax and BTMS-50 in a double boiler until melted and clear.

Heat water to around 170 degrees F.

Mix the oil and water mixture and stick blend in burst for about a minute. Add the clay a tablespoon at a time, blending in bursts until it is fully incorporated.

Let it cool down to around 130 degrees before adding the rose water, Orchid Extract and Optiphen ND.

Mix in bursts for several minutes. Depending on your clay and evaporation you may need a bit more clay. If you substitute with a different clay you may have to slightly adjust to get the right balance of liquid and clay that is to your liking. Continue to mix it occasionally until it has fully cooled, it will set up a bit as it sits. This was about the consistency of yogurt when I poured it. Tap the container on the counter after you fill it to release any air bubbles.

This recipe turned out to be the consistency of whipped yogurt after setting up and feels lite and fluffy.

Aloe Vera Soap

This is my second Aloe Vera Soap. For the first one I made my own aloe vera gel for a cold process soap. It ended up taking a long time to cure and it was a very soft soap. This time Around I am going to use whole leaf Aloe, With the spines trimmed away I am going to blend it with the rest of the skin on it. Then I am going to add it at trace to a hot process soap. In this one I did not replace all of the water with aloe but went with roughly half. This will leave a nice off white soap with little bits of aloe skin in it. I added spirulina powder for a beautiful natural green colorant. The soap recipe itself is an all vegetable blend of olive, coconut, sweet almond, palm and castor then supperfatted with shea butter.